"Pay attention to the world." -- Susan Sontag
 

Hello, Clematis! (2 of 2)

From “Clambering for Attention” in The Story of Flowers and How They Changed the Way We Live by Noel Kingsbury:

“Clematis are now one of the most important groups of garden plants, with dwarf ones, ideal for small gardens, balconies and even window boxes, selling in their millions. The plants have, however, come a long way. The very modestly flowering European species appear to have been grown in gardens from the sixteenth century onwards, but it was the opening up of China and Japan in the nineteenth century that led to the large-flowered hybrids we know today. Far Eastern growers had for centuries had plants with showy flowers and, crucially, a tendency to flower on side shoots. This ability to flower low down makes them very useful as garden plants, as is shown by the habit of growing them on obelisks made from wooden trellis.

“A breakthrough was made in 1858 by the English nurseryman George Jackman, who crossed an existing hybrid with the European
C. viticella and the East Asian C. lanuginosa. The resulting showy, vigorous plant proved a huge success. Meanwhile, C. montana had arrived from the Himalayas, introduced by the wife of the governor general of British India. It too was a great success, clambering up the sides of British country houses, along garden walls and even to the tops of quite substantial trees, smothering everything with pink flowers for a few weeks in early summer….

“From the great botanic gardens of St Petersburg came C. tangutica in the late nineteenth century, a botanical outcome of the ‘great game’, when British and Russian explorers were both investigating, and seeking to dominate, Central Asia. It and similar species are vigorous, and their strangely thick yellow petals are borne, usefully, in late summer.”

From “The Wood-Pile” by Robert Frost in Collected Poems of Robert Frost:

Out walking in the frozen swamp one grey day,
I paused and said, ‘I will turn back from here.
No, I will go on farther — and we shall see.’
The hard snow held me, save where now and then
One foot went through. The view was all in lines
Straight up and down of tall slim trees
Too much alike to mark or name a place by
So as to say for certain I was here
Or somewhere else: I was just far from home….


And then there was a pile of wood…
It was a cord of maple, cut and split
And piled-and measured, four by four by eight.
And not another like it could I see.
No runner tracks in this year’s snow looped near it.
And it was older sure than this year’s cutting,
Or even last year’s or the year’s before.
The wood was grey and the bark warping off it
And the pile somewhat sunken.

Clematis
Had wound strings round and round it like a bundle….


Hello!

This is the second of two posts featuring photos of resurgent Clematis from my garden. The first post — with my backyard history of these plants — is Hello, Clematis! (1 of 2).

As with the previous post, here we start with some of the buds and vines posing in the morning sun. These are followed by images of full flowers — those with prominent purple or pink stripes through their petals, possibly the Clematis lanuginosa variant described in the quotation above. Toward the end, there are closeups of the Clematis flower’s complex central structure.

Thanks for taking a look!











Hello, Clematis! (1 of 2)

From “The Growing Anticipation of Spring” in On Gardening by Henry Mitchell:

“The day before the cold and snow began I planted two clematis, knowing snow was predicted. As always, when you find clematis at this time of year in cartons, the plants had already sprouted, and that soft growth will be killed. The alternative is to plant it in a pot, keeping it cool and damp until mid-April, but when I have done that in the past I have neglected the pots and only got the plants set out months later.

“One thing a novice may not know is that the clematis roots, which are like leather shoelaces, are rammed into the little pots and packed with peat to keep them moist. That is good. But when planted in the garden (in a one-cubic-foot hole, with plenty of leaf mold) the roots should be dusted free of the stuff in the little pot and spread out, and the crown of the plant (where the stem joins the roots) set a full two inches below soil level.

“Another thing not obvious to gardeners the first time a clematis is planted is that the stem is quite delicate and brittle where it joins the roots and is easily broken off. Use care when unpotting and never hold the plant by its stem but by its roots.

“Even if the top is killed, new growth will rise from below ground, and by the third year the stems will be like modest ropes and the plant will cover a space the size of a door.”

From “Clematis” in Jewel Sensed: Poems by David Jaffin: 

These white-

climbing flow
ers at lyrical-

rhythmic in
tervals to

their chosen
taste for up

lifting-color
ings.


Hello!

One day last week, in my back yard whilst I was sound asleep, this happened…

… and me and the dog spent the better part of that day photographing these fresh Clematis flowers, even as they continued opening while the photo session went on. I got a little carried away (as one does!) and ended up with enough photographs for two posts, but it just seemed imperative to capture their images before they started to thin out and drift away. It’s what they wanted, I’m sure….

These Clematis have a story (see Clematis Reincarnated), one that has not yet completed. They were originally among several Clematis plants that I had in pots on my back steps years ago, that got frozen to burnt, black shreds in those pots when we had an extended deep freeze one late winter. As an experiment, I took the crispy remnants of their roots and hopefully transplanted them into a large pot where a Concord grapevine lives (the pot is about three feet high and two feet in diameter, with a steel trellis), hoping they’d find their way back. They didn’t do much the first year — producing just a small handful of flowers — but this year, they seemed to have found their footing (their rooting?) and spread across the top of the pot and up the trellis supporting the grapevine. They want to climb, after all.

There are two or possibly three varieties now flowering among these vines, though most of the flowers resemble that of a Bernadine Clematis (see Bernadine Clematis) I bought about five years ago — with the stripes less prominent than they originally were. This post features Bernadine’s descendants; the next post includes the other varieties, which (unlike the Bernadines) still have distinct purple or violet striping through each of the flower petals, but were not identified with a name other than “Clematis” when I bought them.

These Bernadine progeny, as you can see, might technically be considered white in color now, but in diffused sunlight they take on a light blue cast; and, in warmer sunlight, it’s easy to find violet or purple among the petals. That’s often the case with flowers in blue or purple shades: the color of surrounding light shifts the shades toward cooler (blue) or warmer (purple) tones, and that shift is actually easy to see in programs like Lightroom where they can be rendered in either color (or anywhere in between) and still look natural. As I look at them through the back door, though, they most often show off this dusty or muted light blue, so that’s how I chose to present them here.

In these galleries, we transition from some of the buds and vines with flowers in the background — the vines often make elegant and captivating twists — to single flowers in full, then to closeups of the flower’s central structures. Clematis are members of the Ranunculaceae or Buttercup family, many of which have a similarly complex central structure that contains reproductive organs, colors and shapes that attract pollinators, and of course the valuable pollen the bugs are after that also ensures continued life for the plants.

Thanks for taking a look!










Dipladenia Rio White (2 of 2)

From “Conservatory Climbers: The Dipladenia” in The Horticulturist and Journal of Rural Art and Rural Taste (Vol. 29, 1874), edited by Henry T. Williams:

“Dipladenia is one of the modern favorites in the list of conservatory climbers. The Gardener’s Record [pdf] thinks too much prominence cannot be given to it; for, ‘like many climbing plants, it blooms best when grown prominently forward near to the glass, and perhaps to perfection near to the roof of an intermediate house, with general temperature not below about 55 degrees.’

“Dipladenias are natives of Central America, and belong to the order of Dogbanes, a name given by Dr. Lindley to a certain class of plants, which I believe Linnaeus described as having contorted or twisted-like flowers, with corollas resembling a catherine-wheel firework in motion. To this family belong the Periwinkle, the Oleander, etc….

“With twining habit, and large graceful flowers nearly five inches in diameter, in form like a Convolvulus, and with color varying from pale pink or French white, to clear delicate rosy pink, I know not any more lovely climbing plant for summer, and what is commonly called early autumn. It may be grown from layers, from cuttings, and from seed.”


Hello!

This is the second of two posts with photographs of Dipladenia Rio White from my garden. The first post is Dipladenia Rio White (1 of 2). Moreso than in the previous post, you can see “pale pink” or “rosy pink” (described above) that appears in the blooms during their unfolding, color swatches that tend to be more apparent in the second or third blooming cycle — though this is one of my completely unscientific observations.

Did you know “moreso” isn’t a word? Allegedly, I say! When I typed the previous sentence, the computer ensquiggled “moreso” at me as a misspelling, and I of course just assumed the computer was wrong. It turns out that “moreso” should be written as “more so” or “more-so” — but I don’t like either of those so I’m sticking with “moreso.” I’ve already used it in five previous posts, which makes it a word as far as I’m concerned. And, like everything else in our modern era, it’s controversial — see More So Vs. Moreso: Which is the Correct Spelling? — so I think I can follow my own path.

Thanks for taking a look!








Dipladenia Rio White (1 of 2)

From “Dipladenia Splendens” in The Floral World, Garden Guide, and Country Companion (1879), edited by Shirley Hibberd:

“The large, convolvulus-like, and exquisitely-colored blossoms of this plant are hardly matched by those of any twiner with which I am acquainted, and, under proper management, its charming flowers are produced very abundantly for some two or three months in succession. Notwithstanding that, it is, perhaps, the finest of all twiners which we possess, it is by no means universally cultivated; for in the hands of many it is found to bloom very shyly, or not at all, consequently it has never received the attention which it deserves.

“To insure success in its culture, a light, warm, moist situation and a brisk bottom-heat are indispensable, and where such accommodation cannot be commanded, it is useless to attempt to grow it; with proper convenience, however, it grows very rapidly and blooms abundantly. Cuttings, made of short-jointed, half-ripe shoots, root freely if inserted in sandy, peaty soil, covered with a bell-glass, and afforded a sharp bottom heat….

“In autumn, gradually reduce the supply of water, expose the plants to a circulation of warm, dry air, in order to ripen the wood, and, when this is effected, remove them to a house where the temperature may average from [50 to 60 degrees], and allow them a period of rest, giving no water to the soil during that season. Towards the end of January, or as soon afterwards as circumstances will admit, turn the plants out of their pots, shaking away a portion of the old soil, so as to be able to repot them in fresh materials without using larger pots, at the same time cutting back the shoot to a strong bud near the base. Be careful to have the fresh soil in a moist, healthy state, so as to prevent the necessity of giving much water until growth shall have commenced, and the roots taken to the soil.” 

From “Autumn Dipladenia” by Claude the AI:

White petals unfurl like delicate fans,
Yellow centers aglow in fading light,
Dipladenia blooms on weathered back steps,
A graceful display as day turns to night.

Autumn whispers through waning warmth,
These flowers defy the season’s chill,
Their brightness a lingering memory of summer,
On steps where time stands still.


Hello!

Every spring for the past bunch of years, I’ve gone to one of the nearby garden centers to buy six dipladenia plants. I come home and dig out the previous year’s spent roots from six pots, replace them with the new plants, then set three pots on each side of my back steps. I’ll sometimes choose red dipladenia or sometimes pink — but I especially like these white ones with the yellow centers (officially known as “Dipladenia Rio White”), pictured below. Once they start blooming, they make a nice bright visual pathway from my back door to the courtyard, producing vines that are just robust enough to be attractive and shapely, but only require a trimming or two all season to keep the human or the dog from tripping on them.

I had tried other plants in these same six pots in the past, but have kept returning to dipladenia since — it seems to me — squirrels will leave these plants alone. Any stems or vines they chew or slice with their Freddy Krueger fingernails will exude a sticky white substance they probably don’t like. I don’t like it, for sure; so I’m guessing squirrels don’t like it either and so tend to stay away.

Dipladenia also has a strong root system, even in medium-sized pots, and isn’t bothered by the torrential waterfalls that flow from the double-peaks of my roof during thunderstorms. And here in the southeast, they’ll bloom from April until right about now (or longer, in warmer autumns) so are especially fetching at dusk when receding sunlight catches the contrasting white, yellow, and dark green colors. Late summer and early autumn — when many other flowering plants have passed their blooming stages but fall color hasn’t yet appeared — are my favorite times to photograph them.


If you read the quotation at the top, from the very old book The Floral World, Garden Guide, and Country Companion (sometimes shortened to “The Floral World and Garden Guide”), you know now how to propagate dipladenia in a greenhouse, 1879-style. I don’t actually have a greenhouse — though I’ve often wondered if I could ensqueeze one on my property somehow — but was impressed by how concisely (though somewhat old-Englishly) the author Shirley Hibberd described the process. It would be fun to try it, so if you do, let me know.

If you’ve been here before, you know I often hunt down poems about what I photograph and post them along with one or two non-fiction selections about each kind of flower or plant. I’ve written before — see here and here — about discovering all sorts of excellent books and poetry on the Internet Archive, and how much I’ve learned by doing that. But the Internet Archive (including my favorite part, “Books to Borrow”) has been offline since October 9, after suffering a data breach and a cyberattack — one so significant that it’s gotten its own Wikipedia page: Internet Archive Cyberattack. The organization is still recovering from the attack over a week later, and remains offline until… well, until it’s not offline any more.

Having used it for several years now, I can honestly say that I’ve found it indispensable, and I’m really missing my fingertip access to thousands and thousands of poems. So for today’s poem — “Autumn Dipladenia” — I instead asked my imaginary friend (and amateur poet) ClaudeAI to produce some poetry by prompting it to “write about the Dipladenia variant with white flowers and yellow centers, in pots on someone’s back steps, as they appear in late afternoon autumn light.” After a bit of back and forth with me, it developed that two-stanza poem, which surprisingly placed the plants on “weathered back steps” — which is how my steps look in real life, though I didn’t mention it when asking for the poem. Apparently ClaudeAI has (somehow!) sneaked a peek at my back yard; and I’ll leave you to decide if the poem is any good or not (it does have some pretty good imagery).

Thanks for reading and taking a look!







Chapel Hill Yellow Lantana, Early Autumn (2 of 2)

From “Question Drawer: Treatment of Lantanas” in The Canadian Horticulturist (1899), Volume XXII by Fruit Growers Association of Ontario:

“Question: Sir, how should four-year-old lantana be treated?

“Answer: The lantana is a shrubby little plant, which after a long period of blooming should be rested by witholding water any more than may be necessary to keep them alive. When beginning to make new growth after resting, they should be repotted firmly into good rich soil, and the top should be severely pruned back. More water will be required as the plants begin to grow freely. Syringe the foliage frequently to keep the plants free from the red spider.”

From “On Being Drunk Among the Flowers and Surviving” in Quilted Memories with Our Ancestors by Barbara Youngblood Carr:

So tiny, your thin, colored wings,
painted pale-tan with blue spots,
entire body no bigger
than the lantana bloom
you perch upon….

Small wings fluttering.
you drink all the nectar
you can find
buried deep inside each flower,
long, thin, tubular tongue
mining the last drop.
Then you wobbly-bobbly fly
to the next blossom,
silent as a rainbow,
seeking more sugared,
life-sustaining juice,
desire pangs never completely sated,
always hungry….


Hello!

This is the second of two posts with photographs of lantana blooms from my garden. The first post is Chapel Hill Yellow Lantana, Early Autumn (1 of 2).

As easily entertained as I can be, I thought calling lantana a “shrubby little plant” (in the quotation up-top) was quite funny. It is indeed shrubby, but whether it’s little or not depends on your experience. Those whose photographs I show here are little because they’re restricted to the pots I scrunched them into, but if you move lantanas from pots to the ground for a year or so, they’ll succeed at filling the available space.

I have a pair of previously-potted Mary Ann Lantana plants in my front yard, which I’ve allowed to grow a bit wild for two seasons since they got frozen nearly to death a couple of years ago — and they’ve gone pretty quickly from being little shrubbies to taking over an 8-foot by 4-foot section of the yard. When or whether or not one should drastically cut back lantana can be controversial in Gardening World, but I’m only about a week away from heading out front and dramatically hacking them close to the ground — sort of like Joan Crawford did with her roses, but without the hysterical psychosis.

🙂

Thanks for taking a look!